Selasa, 27 Oktober 2015

Pecinta VES tetap satu Kesatuan

Apapun Bentuk VES-mu (Vitara, Escudo, Sidekick) grand vitara, xl 7, ato escudo 2.0. kita tetap satu
Pada suatu hari Admin menerima SMS dari salah satu pecinta VES, beliau menyebutkan akan adanya pertemuan antara beberapa club VES ( VES Batam Family, Vitara Offroad Batam, Ves Community) beliau menyampaikan ingin menyatukan kembali antara club2 itu dan menjadi VES yang besar lagi. Saya sendiri sangat setuju asal jangan ada egoisme diantara masing2 club maupun anggota. Tak dipungkiri kita terbentuk di Batam karena ada niat dari masing2 pemilik VES dan bukan paksaan. Ves Community Batam sendiri terbentuk karena adanya niat kita sendiri dan pada waktu itu kita hanya ikut Vescom di jakarta, dan dengan data yang admin dapet dari Almarhum Om Ery Rahma Chandra. Kami menemukan kawan-kawan yang mungkin sudah tergabung disitu. Dari situ lah mulai mencari kontak telpon.
  Memang dari kontak tersebut hanya Kami bertiga aja yang akhirnya melakukan kopdar di Ocarina . Sdr Opal, Sdr. Sistyo, dan saya sendiri selaku admin di sini.
 Terlepas dari cerita diatas, di Batam sendiri katanya sudah ada club vitara dengan lokasi di Tanjung Piayu. dan dari niat teman-teman sendirilah kita akhirnya bisa bertemu dan kopdar di top 100 tembesi batu aji, dan terus melakukan kopdar di beberapa tempat , SP plaza, ocarina, Mitra mall, Kepri mall, Tiban, dll.
 Entah mulai dari mana akhirnya club yang terbentuk ini mulai retak.
 Sebenarnya ini bukan Club hanya sebuah komunitas, dengan artian tidak ada keterkaitan dan sesuatu hal seperti halnya club otomotif lainya. Kita hanya mengadakan temu bersama sekedar arisan ibu VES atau bapak2 VES aja. Dan tidak dipungkiri bahwa suatu komunitas dan perkumpulan pastinya akan dibumbui sebuah perbedaan pendapat, perbedaan partai politik , perbedaan agama pun ada.Bahkan  ada juga yang hanya sekedar beli VES kemudian di jual kembali ganti dengan mobil lain dan baru pun ada.
 Mungkin bagi temen- temen yang baru mengenal VES Batam biarlah cerita ini tetap apa adanya, dan jangan terbumbui oleh cerita-cerita yang menyesatkan. Admin Berharap VES tetaplah VES tetaplah Satu kesatuan apalagi bisa sebesar dahulu.

Sekedar informasi dapil-dapil VEScommunity Chapter Batam :

Batu Aji : Bengkel Ahon, Bengkel Mas Tri
Batam center : Perum vrenciana Batam center.
Tiban : Rumah Admin sendiri 6460 di Tiban Koperasi

semua alamat dan no tlp tidak saya publish disini, jika berminat bisa email atau komentar disini.



Rabu, 22 Juli 2015

16 valve 1.6 Liter, Sidekick Timing belt swap

16 valve 1.6 Liter, Sidekick Timing belt swap:   

USA engines 1992 to 2000' The USA Vitara dropped G16b in 2001.
The below applies to factory stock (OE spec) motors and cams, only in (N. America)
The Valve cover can STAY ON ! (but is not advised) It's good to look at cam action.
The crank cog can Stay on, but is but is always (1st time) to look use the new TSB for Torque.
The GM book has gross errors. see that here.

The torque settings are here. do not use GM settings, see errata at the end.( See 6mm warnings and non ISO Suzuki pulley bolts)



I write this page not knowing why you are here (normal 60k belt swap) or the engine died?
THE ACID test and the sneak-a-peek checks.

NEVER TIME the CAM at TDC # 1 cylinder firing ( forget that IDEA?)
This cam is timed at #4 firing ! NOT #1 ! READ THE real FSM carefully or mine below)
Click to zoom Ouch, click to zoom
My Opinion:
Most non OEM published procedures are flawed, they assume too many things, like the belt is not slipped or the distributor was timed correctly. Motor good., etc.
Most generic store bought manuals get many facts wrong. I call them Rags, as that is all they are good for, is to mop up spills. (they have great warnings and safety! topics)
Most books assume there are no failures.
Many store bought manuals (Rags) do not even consider, you have a new cam, new head/block or head gasket. (HOW CAN THIS BE ?)
Nor do they consider , bad maintenance or bad motor, or other failures.
Some use the Distributor as a refrence point to setting the cam, This can cause great troubles. Don't look at the Disributor , leave that for LAST.

FSM = Factory Service Manual. (only GM and Suzuki publish these) {ebay has them used, dirt cheap ,get one for about $28 used}

Replace the Timing belt , Idler and water pump. (at least)
Some like to change the seals ( I don't if , it don't leak)
Changing the crank seal ,USE electricians tape on the shaft to protect the new seal , you will fail if you dont do that.
Buy the full GATES kit with idler. Rockauto.com has this kit. It is very high quality.
The Gates kit DISCOUNT$ the idler !
The idler by itself is very expensive.

The actual FSM 4 pages with annotations by me.

The FULL 96 FSM is also here. See chapter 6A

Jargon :A/T is Automatic transmission, P/S is power steering, A/C is Air Conditioning, CCW is counter clock wise.

Phase I:
  1. Pull battery Minus cable and hide the IGNITION keys. 1st !
  2. Remove all spark plugs. (first, blow out the spark wells and check dirt, get the wells clean ) oil here is a bad Valve gasket set .
  3. Drain Radiator at bottom left (drivers perspective) tank. (take off the RAD Cap to help , after full cooling of motor)
  4. Remove the fan stud nuts and then remove shroud and fan at 1 assembly.
  5. Consider removing radiator (harder on A/T cars or A/C opted cars) . On Automatic, radiator can just be left installed, but slows the job.
  6. It may be possible to tilt the radiator by loosening all mounts, associated with it, to do service , but I remove the RAD every time.
  7. Loosen the 3 Alternator bolts/nuts, and swing it inward. (use a spanner on the lower inboard rear bolt/nut)
  8. blank
  9. Remove Alternator V-belt/ Serpentine belt . (an any other belts, that block the front T-belt cover) P/S , A/C?
  10. P/S has a hidden bolt , bottom / front , dead center, through the pulley , use a socket wrench, loosen all bolts and tilt it, inward. < Skip if A/C car.
  11. IF A/C opted car, the belt tensioner was moved to the A/C mount, so. loosen the A/C compressor. And remove its belt.
  12. Remove Crank Damper pulley outer ring screws ( by unscrewing the tiny 8mm hex headed bolts around rim) Allen heads are none stock, if found.
  13. Remove the T-Belt cover. Bingo, behold a timing belt, look for and correct damage, I check timing marks ,and see if the cam timing is off, and make note of that.
  14. Attempt to get the "E" Mark on the cam cog to 12pm, and crank to TDC NOW!. if the valves hit , try moving both gently CW or CCW to get timed..
  15. Turn the 17mm bottom bolt by hand using hand tools. Never the starter, or a huge breaker bar. (feel it)
  16. Go to Phase II:
Note that in step 12 above, those 8mm heads are NON ISO bolts. Custom Suzuki hex bolts , Do not use 10mm headed bolts or they will jam (screw)If the valves hit when hand turning shafts, and all motor problems are corrected (sheared keys?) then panic and loosen the rocker arm lash adjusters , all 16.

PHASE II. (If replacing crank seal do #4 )
  1. Loosen & remove the timing belt IDLER center tensioner bolt. and associated parts.
  2. Loosen the spring stud bolt. (test this device idler plate, for being free to move and no binding after loosening it.)
  3. Wiggle all parts there, till loose and take off belt and spring. ( as necessary).
  4. Optional Remove the center 17mm large crank COG bolt and wheel and inspect the key way ! This is optional, and 1st time I do this. The tool I made, is here.
  5. If the key way is damaged , you need to stop now and seek expert help. You have a serious problem.
  6. Removing this large 17mm bolt , requires, 5th gear (if 5sp) or a flywheel lock or a front cog locking bar (the latter is easy to make see notes below)
  7. Correct any crank shaft tip damage and put on a new cog and bolt and set the bolt to 94-Ft/lbs and use loctite on the dry threads
  8. blank
  9. Align the E mark to 12pm and the crank cog to TDC (see the great photos below for this alignment)
  10. Put the new belt back on , with the right side (drivers left) of the belt tight , no slack, all slack must be on the opposite idle pulley side.
  11. Warning, the new idler wheel must be indexed (tab on inside edge) to the idler ARM, so they INDEX and track TOGETHER smoothly ( or all bets off) Nor Damaged.
  12. Put back the spring / idler and let the spring take up all slack. now just set the 2 bolts finger tight, then back off a tad, so spring device barely floats.
  13. Make sure the spring plate indexes properly behind the idler bushing (back side index ) so that spring powers the spring plate. (look careful see warnng 13 below )
  14. Check the timing again, with no slack on the right ( left side, for the drivers perspective) Stud nut and idle bolt 1/2 turn loose.
  15. If all checks out , rotate the crankshaft 2 Revolutions CW( Clock-Wise facing rear, at crank big bolt 17mm) , spark plugs removed helps GREATLY !
  16. The spark plugs are removed , see tiny tension spring device , set the exact tension on the belt !by the 2 turns CW ! the tiny sprind DOES ALL THAT.
  17. This extra steps allow the tiny little TBELT spring , to take out the belt slack. Once set perfect we lock it down.
  18. If the timing marks are again perfect , like in step 9 above, then now lock the Idler tensioner bolt and the spring stud to spec.
  19. The engine cam is now timed PERFECTLY. Make sure Idler stud is set to factory torque.
  20. (I do a validate compression test on #1 only , in about 5min flat, if failed, repeat the above) and the ACID test here (key ways x2 and marks)
  21. I then check that the crank is at TDC and in fact the piston is at TDC using my TDC finder page as a guide.
  22. Reverse the above procedures , (access gained on previous page)
  23. LAST time the Distributor. use the 16V section

Warning 13 ?: In step 13 above. the idler base plate has a tang, this tang must be indexed to the idler base (backside) do not guess, index it, or you will have 2 failures, one it that the tension step is never going to work (loose belt) and now the idler is canted, causing belt drifting and hitting cover, a DOUBLE FAIL!

The below new photo makes this very clear. See that TANG, about to fit in TANG hole, This is a MUST DO.



Drawing #1 16v Cam Cog gear: Click below to zoom and see real photo.
< Click to zoom
Photo 1: Crank cog gear:

click to zoom
Note the crank key is at 12PM !!! see it , check CAREFULLY THIS !!!
See that Mark above crank cog , cast into aluminum oil pump housing. See white mark above cog.?
See that Mark on crank cog itself., see my white mark here.



Proper tension is critical, it happens by allowing the spring on the idler to press on belt with the pulley.
The key here is all tension comes from that tiny spring. (on the facing belt left side). Never tension a timing belt like an accessory Serpentine belt.

If you decided to remove the cam cog wheel , you will see that "the key way is at 6pm, "E" the "I" key slow it WRONG !
This Cam wheel MUST be set correctly , do not proceed until it is correct.
There are false marks do no use any false marks.

Keep in mind that spring only works before the lock down , setting the exact tension, the spring is now useless until the next 60k swap.

Note1: the 17mm bolt must be torqued to 94 lbs/ft ,and this can be done, 4 ways.
1: 5th gear , rear wheels chocked in 4wd High. Manual Tranny. Works perfect for me. with 5 speed.
2: AT- 3sp/4sp, with bottom flywheel pan removed and using a flywheel lock (make one. buy one) Suzuki sells them. HUGE VISE GRIPS work perfect.
3: Chilton's says, wrap damper pulley (its back on now) with duct tape and use a chain wrench to hold the pulley (an ugly procedure, gross way.)
4: My way is pulley off, and home made crank bottom cog lock , made of angle iron and attached to , ALT/AC or PS brackets. Drill holes in tool.

Note2:
Please do not rip your cam out or pop off the belt , just because the Distributor is mis timed. Please don't.
Set the cam, then set the Distributor , there is no OTHER WAY. ( and surely never time Distributor and then time cam, as some store rags say to do)

Please use these steps, as an adjunct to the above linked manuals FSM factory documents.

There maybe?, other ways to time an engine, but this page is the FSM way. Feel free to try those other ways.
OEM SUZUKI SPEC. WAY!

Special Photos:
A photo of the 16v cam end with false key way and a marks showing which is wrong.
No manual mentions this fact, that there are 2 slots, ONE IS for G16B and the other is for a SF-413 DOHC motor.
ONLY USE "E" slots and marks. IGNORE ALL "I" MARKS !!!
Photo 2: The Cam belt is timed at #4 firing ! Just as the Gates belt instructions clearly state, and FSM. The "E" mark is at 12pm with the crank at TDC.
click to see on cam photo.
Cam shaft key dowel pin down. E mark UP is the rule G16B, for setting the tension correctly. Ignore all "I" marks.

SEE the 2 false marks?, This same exact cog is used on the G13B and K swift engine, that is a 4 cylinder, twin cam engine, (on the G13 the E means exhaust side, and I mean intake side)
The Suzuki Swift 1.3L DOHC the real Suzuki name for the Swift is SF413 ! regardless of the other 10 names used world wide. (badge names)

DO NOT EVER USE either of the "I" MARKS on this G16B 16valve 1.6L SOHC motor.

Tools and materials: ( outside of full socket sets metric and deep and shallow and metric spanners)
The only special tool needed is:
A feeler guage
and a crank shaft locker if car is A/T.

MY lash procedure: (always LAST)

The below tool is not needed , it is only an option.

Drawing 2:





This worning shows up at GATE Rubber here
The belew is in all USA Geo and Suzuki G16B books publised for this car. YOU DECIDE WHAT IT MEANS !


This warning is on USA and Canada exported engines, if you live in another country or have a low-lift [eco]cam then these precautions, may not apply to you. (but that would be rare!)
These are serious issues, if your car is special or unique, then by all means , ignore all my warnings , this page is OEM LOCK BOX STOCK USA SIDEKICKS.
The Below photo is not for timing CAM. !!! This is for parts identifications ONLY.
Drawing 3:






1996 GEO TRACKED, 16V. Properly TIMED ! Look carefully, all secrets are shown here, all 6 Points of Reference !!! 3 photos.
Photo 3: (see the ACID test here)
Click to zoom

Above, CAM KEY DOWN, "E' MARK UP. Really, can it be more clear ? the above?
Photo 4: (ignore the TONE wheel in years less than 1996)

Photo 5: (minor damage to key) A new cog stopped the back side hitting !!!




The Realities of bad maintenance: (running water pumps over 60k miles)
On many cars, a water pump failure can the timing belt by cutting through the cover and hitting it.
On Side kicks , I've seen the main water pump bearing, so bad, that the pulley flopped side to side, cutting through the front cover
and destroying the timing belt. (takes serious ignorance, to drive any car with a bad screaming water pump , huh?)
All belts fail for 1 reason, the owner did not do the 60,000 mile mandatory service. (pump not wailing away.)

FAIL ?
Many things that cause this (my) Timing belt proceedure to fail, or just seems too:
There are a huge list of things that will make the new belt seem to fail , a huge list of engine failures, or EFI issues.
If you motor, now has 170PSI compression cold (I always do this, after this procedure), then you didn't mess up cam timing..

PIT-FALLS: (in order of popularity :
  1. Thinking? (stop that) that the cam is timed at #1 cylinder firing, NO, IT IS NOT, it is timed to #4 firing...
  2. Reversing the belts after running them or turning them inside out , (don't let kids play with the belt, or Rex the dog.)
  3. Not indexing the Idler base lever plate TANG (tabs) as seen in warning 31 above. see parts 5 and 7 in Drawing here.
  4. Not replacing belt every 60k miles (60,000) read the operators guide, this is all covered there.
  5. Not inspecting crank key for damage or using the new TSB spec for the big bolt, revised in 1996 and is (94ft/lbs) (covers all years 89-98)
  6. Not torquing the big 17mm crank bolt with flywheel locked.
  7. Using the false marks for KEY or Timing (see photo above)
  8. Not replacing missing or obviously damaged parts, Suzuki still sells all these parts.
  9. Not inspecting crank key way for damage, at least 1 time , at first day of car owner ship. (then set it up right with proper torque and locktite)
  10. Not doing the sneak-a-peak and acid tests, when all 4 cylinders are low compression.
end.



LAST , do the Distributor timing.


rev5------- 9-/5-2010 (major edit).
All Text/html , COPYRIGHT © 2007- 7/23/2015 , FixKick.com


NEED YOUR BLOOD , fyi


Assalamu’allaikum ,

Sedulur2 sedoyo.. dinden puniko anak kito Ainun  wonten Panti Permate trembesi, mbetah aken  supply  darah Golongan O,

Menawi sedulur2 wonten ingkang kagungan golongan darah ingakang sami, kulo mewakili  pengurus LKSA Permate , nyuwun sabiyantu  dumateng poro sedulur,

Sak puniko anak kito Ainun dipun rawat wonten RSUD Embung Fatimah Batu Aji ,

 

Matur suwun , sak derengipun , nyuwun dipun infoaken dumateng sedulur2,,sedoyo,

 

Meniko NO hp pengurus Permate

BU SITI no hp.0852-6440-0790

 

 

Best regards,

Susanto Sastro
Production Planning
ext. 321
susanto.sastro@kopsurfaceproducts.com |
www.kopsurfaceproducts.com

PT. KOP Surface Products
TEL: (+62 778) 41 13 58
VISIT: Jalan Bukit Girang TT II Batu Ampar

Batam 29432 Indonesia

 

Minggu, 28 Juni 2015

Bakti Sosial Ke Panti Asuhan Yabunaya Batam Barelang

Kami ingin menyampaikan bahwa , VES Community Chapter Batam
berencana melakukan Bakti Sosial ke Panti Asuhan Yabunaya Barelang
untuk lebih jelasnya bisa hub om Rizal Segala, Ahon, Ahmad Fikhri Hasibuan.
Kami menerima diluar community untuk ikut bergabung serta menyumbang se ikhlasnya untuk adik-adik kita di panti Asuhan , yang Insya Alloh akan di adakan pada hari
Hari : Minggu, 28-Juni-2015
tempat berkumpul : Bengkel Ahon

Selasa, 16 Juni 2015

Scema of EFI 16V

what is EFI?

what is EFI?
This engine runs by means of a system, called the E.F.I. for Electronic Fuel Injection. (includes spark in 1991) (1989 to present)
Almost all cars 1988 and newer, have this system. ( due to the USA EPA/ California laws) effective mandates, on SMOG laws.

Why we have EFI and no more CARB'S in USA? , here is a 1980 Carb setup that passes smog, no words need define the word SUCK here. Just look. "aka, Vacuum H3LL"


I like to think of EFI as Distributed, Carburetor. (really if you think about that hard, IT IS !) And some things (all good) were added to make this New EFI carb better (like temperature and altitude corrections)
Fuel pump runs higher pressure, up to 10x more. 6 is now 60, worst case. (30-40s range normal)
All they really did is spread the parts out, making them easy to test, and easy to replace and costs way less, like a new ECT is $25, (ever price a new carb? or try to find parts for one?)
ANALOGY:

  • The Carb fuel nozzels are now Injector(s).
  • The Carb jets are now (equations in a computer) making them adjustable for the first time (that is, never seen an SU carb ? with variable jets? as most folks never have. (60s British cars?)
  • The Carb emulsion jets are now equations (see above)
  • The Carbs T.V. is STILL THERE (throttle valve) (no, not television, sorry)
  • The Carbs Choke is gone, replaced by (equations). (I spent way too many years fixing this junk , the crappy sticking chokes and endless stories here.... all bad.)
  • The Equations are fed by "SENSORS". (MAP/MAF, ECT, TPS , IAT and 02 and RPM)
  • The carbs Power valve is gone, and is also equations. (stored in fixed memory ) and varies by air flow (sensors).
  • The carbs float and float valve are now gone and now a FPR regulator.
  • The carb could never talk to you, but now the EFI can ! hey buddy the TPS is stuck at 5v. fix that please. (all you need to do is SCAN IT)
The carb ?,with a vacuum leak goes lean and surges, the EFI can self correct ( 3 ways or more...)
If a carb part breaks?, the car stalls (floods or goes lean and stalls), if the EFI sees a bad sensor it goes to Failsafe (limphome) and engine runs crappy but runs, and beasts the hell out of walking.
The EFI system. is way simpler than any Carb. with all its fussy , complex needles , jets, power valves, sticking chokes, or air bleeds and the like !
End carbs. , carbs are Dead technology today. (I have 1 cars that has a carb still and a motorcycle) My car is 1968. (runs like new too)


EFI:?

If EFI don't ring a bell ?, please check out my page below:
The presumptions are, you have engine and drive line mechanical/electrical(electronic) maintenance, skills. (can do compression tests. vacuum tests, and fuel pressure tests and a full tuneup, all are basics.)
A full set of tools and or the desire to buy more.
You can NOT fix a car, with out tools and Tools are free, that is, all tools net DIVIDENDS , to the point of payback!The desire to dig in and get to the problem, will overcome any hesitations (yes a pun).

If you want magic or expect to fix a car with no tools or money, then you need a reality check.(I'm sorry all machines break and need humans to keep them running, and not one machine on earth has "zero costs of ownership")

I refuse to guess. (as do all ASE mechanics) See this master say that clearly, to the students, DO NOT ask me to GUESS!
If you want to throw parts and guess, then do so, it is your nickel , and wasted time, I can not help you guess. In the end, it is your car and your cash.

There is but one Silver bullet . (but yes, do tune up the engine) (The Lone Ranger, magic silver bullet, refr) (spark parts and filters do not last over 60,000 miles, )
Imagine paying a mech to fix your car at $100 and hour + 2x price on parts ,and all that was wrong ?,were bad spark plugs or a clogged fuel filter, (you can do that service (just those 5 parts) for $25 at home)
Not only that, the dealers charges $15+ for $2.50 spark plugs. (earning the name stealerships, well earned? huh?)
What do you thing $25 new spark wires cost there, 400% more. 800% < ask them and cry.

The EFI will not function correctly with a bad engine (dead cylinder(s)?) dead spark or bad sensors or actuators. ( or bad gas).
The ECU will try hard , very very hard to run a bad engine, (low compression?, Air leaks? etc) but will not do so on a dead engine or one with dead cylinders.
I call these LIES, if anything lies to the ECU, it will malfunction. Bad sensors, or leaking or clogged injectors will result in bad fuel control.
(However the ECU/PCM can adjust to normal wear and compression losses over time and altitude like no CARB ,ever could by itself. Heck we had to retune the carbs for Denver, Co.)
Lies to ECU or any computer, are called GIGO, garbage in , garbage out. ( If sensors lie to it , it will send out (inject) results, based on those lies)

Bad fuel pressure, is one form of a vary BIG lie. (bad means out of spec, (short for factory specifications) 30 PSI is minimum ,but if the FPR fails and pressure is 55psi , all hope is lost !!!
The ECU (EFI) brain, is not Deity like or Omnipotant it is really, brick stupid, and has no inputs to true reality, therefor, it can never make a comparison to truth.
The CHECK engine LAMP; or CEL:
The false illusion that my engine is ok, if the CEL lamp don't glow running , IS NOT TRUE at all. (The ECU will report SMOG is bad, or gross sensor failures, and no newer cars lots more , but on old cars it will never reliably report a bad running)
The ECU will not report low engine compression, in 1996+ they do report MISFIRE for the first time ever.
However, the ECU can detect sensors lines that short or just the wire fell off of it. "opens and shorts, are reported, for some, but not all sensors/actuators.

On topic reading links are here:
You might get help here.

Even better, is Wiki

If you don't have a scan tool, you must learn to test your sensors and learn to convert the readings to human terms. .
Take one example, the ECT, the hot engine with ECT unplugged will read about 250 ohms. 250 ohms is 180 degrees F. (revised 2015 with Excel plots )

Here are my sensors test page.


Consider the below block diagram for EFI. (I made it up as a universal system for TBI and MPI and the adding of spark in 1991, SEE BLACK "X" for that addition)
My drawing is crude , I'm no artist or writer , only a retired mechanic. (I did only electronic controls, last 10 years and PLC's, and computers and chip testing for over 50years.)

The system is simple , if you just look at the whole system engine with EFI.


Suzuki ECU History: (USA evolution only)
The below shows a basic fuel system, (The 89/90 year, there is only 1 injector and the ECU don't create or control spark, but it DOES monitor spark and cut fuel if spark goes bye-bye)
1989-90' EFI is a fuel only system.!
The 89/90 has a stand alone Distributor (old school, mech. vacuum and advancement weights) , and a coil, the ECU does not create or regulate spark, in these 2 early years.
In 1991 the TBI 8v ECU, now creates and controls all spark and advancement of same.

For EFI skeptics , if you drove 2 cars for 20 years both 1.6L the gas savings (10,000 miles per year) 1990 to present would be a fuel savings of $5000.00 (some of the V8s SBC/ LBC Chevy's report gains over 20% ! (quadrajet sickness)




Digging in to EFI: ( ECU is Engine Control Unit)
The ECU is a processor and as such has inputs , outputs and if the inputs lie , the outputs lie.

If any input goes bad (detected it) the ECU will attempt (very poorly) to mimic that bad sensor ( simulate is the correct word and works better starting in 1996+, that is, less crude)
If the ECU knows what is wrong it will throw DTC errors and glow the CEL lamp.
The ECU can do 4 things, work perfect, run in Failsafe, run in Backup mode, and be LOST.
See Backup and Failsafe here, this will kill economy and power and RPM limits. (spark retraded, and 15MPG horrid fuel economy
What does lost mean?, it means that something horrid is bad, but the ECU does not know what it is, (like fuel pressure at 60PSI) and the ECU can not control fueling at all, it just runs rich. (do to lack of sensor command Authority)
The ECU is NOT all powerful and knowing , it is not Artificial Intelligence as some think.
It can't be , "because it has little to no redundancy in the sensors., and lacks necessary quantity of sensors to do that., for example, it has no wide band oxygen sensor"



I like to think of the below drawing as a FLAT carburettor or distributed..,, with the parts all laid out and easy to test and replace. because it IS.
The 89/90' just controls fuel see that "X:" the X path was added in 1991 to NOW.
So as you can see , only the 7 inputs below control injections.
If the 7 inputs(counting CMP (CAS) are good, then the output (injections) will be good. The 7th input is fuel pressure , it must be in the specified range.
The word CAS below is for either or both the CMP or CKP sensors (cam and crank) that I show as ONE sensor. CAS. (crank/cam angle sensors)
CKP started in 1996 for SMOG and misfire detection, the engine runs with the CKP unplugged 1996-98. (not tried later)
The ECU brain, will mimic all detected dead sensors.
(but never can it mimic a dead CMP (cas) CAS means cam angle sensor here.
if the CMP dies , RPM is 0 and there can be no spark or injection timing ever with a dead CMP)
The ECU can get lost if any sensors are wrong (weak) or fuel pressure wrong. or VUCUUM bouncing like a mexican jumping bean.(or a 10 year old kid on a Pogo stick)
If the spark is bad, the engine can not burn fuel correctly and NO EFI system can cure that.(not yet)
The injectors must not leak or be clogged.
IF the exhuast leaks (cracks?) near the 02 , the 02 lies, and the ECU goes , NUTS.
IF the air meters (MAF/MAP ) are not dead but lie? AFR will suffer. (but will run in most cases) (on a carb car, if the Carb can't feel (if you will) air flow?, the engine dies) (AFR means the Air/ Fuel flow ratios.)
Case in point, unplug the MAF/MAP engine runs but real rich. Try to run engine with each sensor unplugged and learn what happens?





The below, is the 8 valve TBI system total; ( the 89/90 Kick, only does injection , never does it do, spark, but does cut fuel of the tacho wire A1 goes dead.)
All Suzuki ECU's kill injection if spark is lost. No exceptions. (same with CMP, and a dead Tachmeter signal pin A1 (oddly missing on Suzuki drawing below) but is here.

Starting in 1991 the ECU took over FULL spark generation duties. see that below. (91-95 USA)






This system will run your engine , even if the motor is old and tired.

It will not run your engine correctly, if the engine has dead cylinders , or you have bad sensors, actuators or bad fuel pressure. Nor clogged injectors or leaking ones.
A bad engine is discovered by poor compression, weak or bouncing vacuum at idle.
The ECU can NOT adjust for dead cylinders, nor gross cam timing issues or gross Ignition timing errors.

Here is the 16v 1992-95 (N.American) ECU. with my markup's It has 3 more injectors and the MAP is replaced with a MAF.
Here are my sensors test page.

end basics, G16 EFI.



The Jargon is not made up , it is SAE/ASE standard terms. (Society of Automotive Engineers)

I made a very short list of 40 of the 4000 terms or Jargon used by SAE.

We use Jargon, because nobody wants to read, or type, Engine Coolant Temperature sensors 1000 times. over and over.... it's ECT (every technology has its Jargon , or worse latin, ask your Doctor that.... omg)


Source : Fixkick.com
rev 4 1-5-11

 

Kamis, 07 Mei 2015

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