Tampilkan postingan dengan label Ves Community Chapter Batam. Tampilkan semua postingan
Tampilkan postingan dengan label Ves Community Chapter Batam. Tampilkan semua postingan
Senin, 18 Januari 2016
Rabu, 13 Januari 2016
KOPDAR 16 January 2016 Engku Putri
Assalamu' alaikum wr wb
meneruskan informasi kopdar dari Om Fikri.
" untuk menjalin silahturahmi om2 tante2 veslovers batam dan sekitarnya , veslovers akan mengadakan kopdar di :
tanggal : 16 Januari 2016
Hari : Saptu
Tempat : dataran Engku Putri Batam Center
jam 19.00 ~ selesai
Wassalam.
Salam kompersa.
Salam one unity
meneruskan informasi kopdar dari Om Fikri.
" untuk menjalin silahturahmi om2 tante2 veslovers batam dan sekitarnya , veslovers akan mengadakan kopdar di :
tanggal : 16 Januari 2016
Hari : Saptu
Tempat : dataran Engku Putri Batam Center
jam 19.00 ~ selesai
Wassalam.
Salam kompersa.
Salam one unity
Rabu, 06 Januari 2016
How to time the distributor G16B, ( slang: DIZZY ! )
| Suzuki Sidekicks & Geo Trackers, only 1992 to 1998. 16 valve or the Tracker VIN code "6" See The full distributor installation steps are here, if it was removed from the HEAD: If your motor is G16A, or 8 valves? then , Go back one page to find the 8v procedure. The page is long, because of all the was ways to mess up or if distributor was removed.
The Distributor (dizzy) rotor needs to be at 1pm at TDC. The firing order is 1,3,4,2 CCW dizzy rotation it is, unlike 8v rotation. (and not like lies in most books) Counter Clock Wise it is. Please time the cam using #4 marks. Please time the distributor using #1 marks. I will not cover, timing the distributor to #4 nor the funny firing order 4,2,1,3 CCW. no mad previous owners, no slipped timing belts, (we do this, after every tune up, a fast check) Assumptions here? A fast fine adjustment list. (assumes crank pulley is clean and the timing belt cover scale is clean too.) All accessories OFF, (no head lights, no A/C , no blower, no radios or amps, no rear defrost; only engine running, NOTHING ELSE) 1: Hot motor (180f degrees minimum) running at proper idle speed. 2: Connect an ignition timing Strobe light to the #1 spark HV lead. (mid HV wire span is best) 3: Idle at 800 RPM (if not set it now) (TB idle bleed screw) 4: Set the Freeze jumper. (paper clip) conn. just in front of battery or near right front head light 1996+, Early Suzuki uses 4 pin DLC and 6, I've no idea what you have now. At these Jumper pins 4 to 5 6pin DLC, or C to D on 4pin DLC. as your case my be. If the freeze fails read this. (called timing bounce) Check timing?, now at 800 RPM (+/- 50 rpm) per below: 5: Point the Strobe at the timing scale see it at, or adjust it to, 5 Degree's Before TDC (left side of zero scale mark) see under hood ("sticker" for factory spec on timing.if just tad off (1deg?) adjust distributor base, if way off (a mad PO?) the timing belt has slipped, if true, do not touch distributor and do the cam belt first. Hint, that hood sticker timing is different in different countries, our G16B uses 5°BTDC (fed) and 8°BTDC in CALIFORNIA. so why not read your hood sticker first.? Loosen the distributor base bolt and set the timing to the left of 0, advanced per YOUR sticker spec. If the timing bounces, that is wrong, with the freeze jumper in place , there are 9 causes for that failure.The 60k tune up, schedule states when to change the Cam belt, avoid skipping this service point and avoid being stranded. If discovered "like magic" ignition timing is way off?, do the Tbelt sneak-a-peek check. if spark timing is off and he cam belt is timed right then do the full dizzy timing procedure, someone hacked up your timing,. This pages assumes you know how to use a strobe type ignition timing light, and that you know , the Dizzy spins Counter clock wise and the crank spins Clock wise (looking at pulley) (non believer? crank and look, behold!) And that the marks, are clear. Myths: The 16v dizzy turns Clockwise, WRONG !, Most GM and Auto store book (rags) show this and is dead WRONG. Many (most) books show the dizzy turning the wrong way, they lied. it turns CCW, watch the rotor cranking. All Suzuki books, in print get this CORRECT. SPEC: Here are the timing specifications page based on your options and year or in California cars. FACT: The Firing order, is 1,3,4,2 (CCW) ! #1 spark plug is the front of the car, Do no listen to myths or store bought RAGS. The store bought books, try to cover 10 years, and 3 engine and mix up all the facts in a toxic soup. this page covers only the 16v . The 8v Dizzy spins opposite to any 16v. That is their failing. In 1996 the engine got a new Dizzy (spark coil inside) and a new crank sensor. (the later makes spark way more accurate) Rule 1: Always replace the spark plug wires. 1 at a time. This page is long , due to all the ways, to mess up, in reality, it only takes 5 min
to do timing. (point strobe ,twist dizzy, lock it down)
Prerequisites: The Crank shaft to cam timing is first , never last. IF your cam timing belt slipped , snapped or stripped (they do just after 60k miles) or the keys sheared, then you must correct that first. or ? If your car runs pretty good, then jump to the FINE TUNE procedure , HERE. There are 2 timing procedures. Coarse, sometimes called Static and then the fine tuned dynamic method. The worse case method is , install the Distributor physically, and clamp it down using the coarse section below. The coarse adjustment will be about 5 degrees ± accurate when done , and the car will start and run fine. Later, you get a timing light and set the dynamic timing exactly. Preliminary step: Attach the Cap to the Distributor body. look at the mount clamp hole on the body and position it to 12pm, then notice the first cap tower is at 1PM . Put a mark on the cap in line with this position,down to the aluminum body and not mark the body. The Distributor body now has a #1 mark. This can be done distributor on the car or off the car; it don't matter at all. The coarse adjustment: ( the adjustment done ,before the final final fine timing procedure.) We do this after Dizzy or head removal. Also Know as STATIC timing adjustment: Coarse is by hand and eyeball, dynamic is with a strobe light. Consider replacing both the Distributor O-Rings on all high mileage Kicks, before doing this procedure, using Silicone grease. ( or leaks will happen) The Main Housing to the Head O-ring , loves , to crack and then leak oil all over the back of the engine and down to the exhaust pipe. WARNING:If you are reading this, to find out how to time your Distributor and the previous owner, set the timing with the Distributor gears set to a non- standard position, and you do not wish to start from scratch , per below then , you must put the crank to TDC #1 firing and then pull the cap and write down where this last person timed your engine. WHERE IS #1 wire? mark this point on the Distributor body. If you do not do this, you will never get the engine to run, if you mix up the HV spark wires. If you do not heed this advice above, then you have only 2 choices, discover what this person did?, or follow my procedure below. My procedure below is the OEM FSM method. (by the book). Please use this method. There are 4 high voltage wires, you can in fact time the engine 4 different ways, but please do it the correct OEM way. New or replacing the HV spark wires? Replace them one at time. (or mark the cap first) if not ?, you will have pain. A running engine:If you are just replacing cap or wires , then just swap one wire at a time or mark every cap port and each wire with a tag. 1 , 2, 3, ..... Done ! Best is marking everything, for most Distributor work, on a running motor and pre tear down! FINDING #1 TDC?: Set the Crank to TDC 0 deg. Cam at TDC #1 cylinder Valve lifters all loose (valves closed fully). #1 cylinder is the front cylinder ! (blow air into #1 cylinder spark plug hole with any new rubber tube with lips, if you can't blow, then the valves are closed.) The same trick can be done with a cylinder compression gauge. < OEM style.
If valve cover is off , just look at the valves, 4 loose lifters indicates 4 valves closed.
If not , then the below works every time 100% HV= High Voltage wires If Distributor was not ever completely removed, then jump to step 16. ALL STEPS Static timing.: (worse case, Valve Cover attached) (all steps if Distributor was removed or some removed or spun it wildly ]
FSM Dizzy position lost. chapter 6D4-7. Watch out for FSM chapter 8 showing rotor going backwards. Way to go, GM, and Haynes! 16-Valve Engine Wire lay out. Lay down the wires , exactly like shown. << OEM way ! The 16v engine rotates the Distributor Counter clock wise directions , see the photo ? Below ? Go back one page to find the 8v procedure So laying down the wires correctly is important, and the firing order is 1,3,4,2. The Proper Ignition Setup. Not shown wrong , like so many books. Clamp bolt is straight up on 16v engine . The Clamp bolt is the most important , reference point. Drawing 1: The truth, unlike the lies shown in most books (non Suzuki books)  If you did the procedure correct above, the car will start. (good motor , cam timed correct and good compression) If not, check your work carefully. Best is to put the cap back on, mark #1 , HV tower lug on the base, for more easy alignment. Don't forget the timing light works key on cranking, and fuel pump relay removed to cut fuel and set Photo#1  Really nice HR photo , Thanks again JIM! Again, OEM , 1PM locations TDC #1 firing. FYI :CAM COG, "E" spoke mark is at 6pm , means #1 firing, This photo below is a crude FSM photo, The only important issue is marking the base with # 1 location ( Like Here 1, and Here 2 , and last Here 3) First mark the #1 tower , then the base of tower then the inside of base. I'm using Liquid paper ! Drawing 2, not a GM wrong drawing. The rotor turns CCW. "counter clock wise" ! This real drawing is #1 firing, By Suzuki.  96-98 actual distributor (97 in hand) and my index marks in white. Note reality is slightly different than the above FSM Go back one page to find the 8v procedure photo. (side connector location , actual) The base MOUNT is 12 O-clock. that is our reference point. The below is 1996-98. note the coil HV lug, ! its timed the same way as 92-95 distributors. see my #1 markes in white, I used the cap fitted to find those. The 96 has the side connector moved... Photo2:  The distributor can be timed to any of the 4 High voltage tower posts and run great. but the firing order is 4,2,1,3 and that confuses the heck out of folks, why do that? But only the above is the OEM way. The harness binds up, in most the wrong ways, so.... If you want to time it to 11pm, 4pm or 7pm , have at it. But don't expect help from others. (or later usage of same in any FSM) I see many timed at 11pm. (due to mechanics that follow the 8v books or non OEM manuals, speculation or worse follow any Auto store Rags (book of lies) book) THE FINE TIMING SETTING Procedure: Also Known as Dynamic timing ,using a STROBE light. The engine now runs , so now we adjust the timing for perfection.You need an electronic strobe timing light. (beg, buy , barrow or rent one). Before connecting your timing light: (examine spec. values, there are 2 timing values for different years) Place the DLC Ignition FREEZE jumper. If the timing will not freeze the EFI is either IN LIMPHOME mode or the throttle TPS idle switch is stuck open (calibrate it) The timing must not bounce if it does repair the causation of Limphome or correct the below pre-conditions.
Clamp the Timing light ,inductive clip to #1 spark plug HV cable. (the spark wire, #1 is front). Using a electronic timing light set your timing by moving the Distributor base just a tad. Set it to the mfg , specifications. Again, if the timing wiggles by itself , the ECU diagnostic jumper in front of the battery has the jumper set WRONG !!! or other input to ECU is wrong.
Specification History: Timing is 8 deg. BTDC ( before top dead center) [ early Kicks ]In 1996 the Timing dropped to 5 Deg. BTDC, up to year 2000. RPM is 750- 850 starting in 1996 to 1998 RPM is 700-800 1999 to 2000 BTDC = Before Top Dead Center (firing, NOT exhausting ) The photo below is with the CRANK at TDC 0 degrees and on the Firing stroke and not the Exhaust stroke. The Freeze Jumper does not work correctly, my timing keeps jumping (bouncing) like crazy. Why? First thing to know is the bounce is normal on all 1991 to today cars, it bounces for the fact that the ECU moves advance even at idle, and for low smog, low fuel uses and to fine tune idle speeds,. Normal, so to set timing you need a freeze jumper planted, (Suzuki uses an other name, but freeze is clearer) Do not panic. The Nine ways to fail freeze, not counting the 1st rule on timing, steps above, all accessories are OFF, The problem is real and common, the ECU sees a major fault. The following failures will cause this problem: In ORDER.
anything ever, on demand and is not the silly nag switch set wrong. Backup mode is DEAD ECU... Failsafe is usually the ECU sensors inputs dead. not ECU bad. The ECU will show DTCs for gross sensor input errors. The Marks on all 1.6L motors look like the below. Drawing 3: One more TDC view: When cranking motor , using the strobe the light falls for each wire connected, (mag pickup) per the below. If not?, it's timed all wrong. (proof in pudding) If the crank key (shears) slips, all marks, on this page are 100% worthless and just whistling in the dark , only a true TDC finder can solve that riddle. Drawing 4:  Fast Dizzy planting 16v. 1992 to 1998 USA spec. cars. (firing order is 1,3,4,2 on all 4 cylinder kicks , #1 is front) There are 4 ways to time the distributor, the below is the FACTORY way. (all 4 ways work, but I'm not covering all ways) You are here, because all timing was lost, for the Dizzy (Distributor) Factoid 1: The engine fires every 180 degrees of crank rotation. CW is normal rotation facing rear of car. CW means CLOCK WISE. This section, is a short version of this: (the below, is short, as is possible)
you can remove spark plug #1 and blow into #1 and if can't blow, it's firing on #1 (the blow test ) Yes, use a CLEAN hose and lips to do that. The Gorky way (engine more taken apart) "if the cam cover is off, put the cam E spoke, mark down, at 6pm and crank mark at TDC 0 mark. This is #1 firing now. E mark up is #4 firing not #1 Assumptions: (PO = Previous Owners) PIT FALL HELL:
RELATED: O-Ring data: see dizzy Oring sources and part numbers here. rev.=19, 4/29/2013 , All Text/html , COPYRIGHT © 2007- 1/7/2016 , FixKick.com | |
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Selasa, 27 Oktober 2015
Pecinta VES tetap satu Kesatuan
Apapun Bentuk VES-mu (Vitara, Escudo, Sidekick) grand vitara, xl 7, ato escudo 2.0. kita tetap satu
Pada suatu hari Admin menerima SMS dari salah satu pecinta VES, beliau menyebutkan akan adanya pertemuan antara beberapa club VES ( VES Batam Family, Vitara Offroad Batam, Ves Community) beliau menyampaikan ingin menyatukan kembali antara club2 itu dan menjadi VES yang besar lagi. Saya sendiri sangat setuju asal jangan ada egoisme diantara masing2 club maupun anggota. Tak dipungkiri kita terbentuk di Batam karena ada niat dari masing2 pemilik VES dan bukan paksaan. Ves Community Batam sendiri terbentuk karena adanya niat kita sendiri dan pada waktu itu kita hanya ikut Vescom di jakarta, dan dengan data yang admin dapet dari Almarhum Om Ery Rahma Chandra. Kami menemukan kawan-kawan yang mungkin sudah tergabung disitu. Dari situ lah mulai mencari kontak telpon.
Memang dari kontak tersebut hanya Kami bertiga aja yang akhirnya melakukan kopdar di Ocarina . Sdr Opal, Sdr. Sistyo, dan saya sendiri selaku admin di sini.
Terlepas dari cerita diatas, di Batam sendiri katanya sudah ada club vitara dengan lokasi di Tanjung Piayu. dan dari niat teman-teman sendirilah kita akhirnya bisa bertemu dan kopdar di top 100 tembesi batu aji, dan terus melakukan kopdar di beberapa tempat , SP plaza, ocarina, Mitra mall, Kepri mall, Tiban, dll.
Entah mulai dari mana akhirnya club yang terbentuk ini mulai retak.
Sebenarnya ini bukan Club hanya sebuah komunitas, dengan artian tidak ada keterkaitan dan sesuatu hal seperti halnya club otomotif lainya. Kita hanya mengadakan temu bersama sekedar arisan ibu VES atau bapak2 VES aja. Dan tidak dipungkiri bahwa suatu komunitas dan perkumpulan pastinya akan dibumbui sebuah perbedaan pendapat, perbedaan partai politik , perbedaan agama pun ada.Bahkan ada juga yang hanya sekedar beli VES kemudian di jual kembali ganti dengan mobil lain dan baru pun ada.
Mungkin bagi temen- temen yang baru mengenal VES Batam biarlah cerita ini tetap apa adanya, dan jangan terbumbui oleh cerita-cerita yang menyesatkan. Admin Berharap VES tetaplah VES tetaplah Satu kesatuan apalagi bisa sebesar dahulu.
Sekedar informasi dapil-dapil VEScommunity Chapter Batam :
Batu Aji : Bengkel Ahon, Bengkel Mas Tri
Batam center : Perum vrenciana Batam center.
Tiban : Rumah Admin sendiri 6460 di Tiban Koperasi
semua alamat dan no tlp tidak saya publish disini, jika berminat bisa email atau komentar disini.
Pada suatu hari Admin menerima SMS dari salah satu pecinta VES, beliau menyebutkan akan adanya pertemuan antara beberapa club VES ( VES Batam Family, Vitara Offroad Batam, Ves Community) beliau menyampaikan ingin menyatukan kembali antara club2 itu dan menjadi VES yang besar lagi. Saya sendiri sangat setuju asal jangan ada egoisme diantara masing2 club maupun anggota. Tak dipungkiri kita terbentuk di Batam karena ada niat dari masing2 pemilik VES dan bukan paksaan. Ves Community Batam sendiri terbentuk karena adanya niat kita sendiri dan pada waktu itu kita hanya ikut Vescom di jakarta, dan dengan data yang admin dapet dari Almarhum Om Ery Rahma Chandra. Kami menemukan kawan-kawan yang mungkin sudah tergabung disitu. Dari situ lah mulai mencari kontak telpon.
Memang dari kontak tersebut hanya Kami bertiga aja yang akhirnya melakukan kopdar di Ocarina . Sdr Opal, Sdr. Sistyo, dan saya sendiri selaku admin di sini.
Terlepas dari cerita diatas, di Batam sendiri katanya sudah ada club vitara dengan lokasi di Tanjung Piayu. dan dari niat teman-teman sendirilah kita akhirnya bisa bertemu dan kopdar di top 100 tembesi batu aji, dan terus melakukan kopdar di beberapa tempat , SP plaza, ocarina, Mitra mall, Kepri mall, Tiban, dll.
Entah mulai dari mana akhirnya club yang terbentuk ini mulai retak.
Sebenarnya ini bukan Club hanya sebuah komunitas, dengan artian tidak ada keterkaitan dan sesuatu hal seperti halnya club otomotif lainya. Kita hanya mengadakan temu bersama sekedar arisan ibu VES atau bapak2 VES aja. Dan tidak dipungkiri bahwa suatu komunitas dan perkumpulan pastinya akan dibumbui sebuah perbedaan pendapat, perbedaan partai politik , perbedaan agama pun ada.Bahkan ada juga yang hanya sekedar beli VES kemudian di jual kembali ganti dengan mobil lain dan baru pun ada.
Mungkin bagi temen- temen yang baru mengenal VES Batam biarlah cerita ini tetap apa adanya, dan jangan terbumbui oleh cerita-cerita yang menyesatkan. Admin Berharap VES tetaplah VES tetaplah Satu kesatuan apalagi bisa sebesar dahulu.
Sekedar informasi dapil-dapil VEScommunity Chapter Batam :
Batu Aji : Bengkel Ahon, Bengkel Mas Tri
Batam center : Perum vrenciana Batam center.
Tiban : Rumah Admin sendiri 6460 di Tiban Koperasi
semua alamat dan no tlp tidak saya publish disini, jika berminat bisa email atau komentar disini.
Rabu, 22 Juli 2015
16 valve 1.6 Liter, Sidekick Timing belt swap
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valve 1.6 Liter, Sidekick Timing belt swap: USA engines 1992 to 2000' The USA Vitara dropped G16b in 2001. The below applies to factory stock (OE spec) motors and cams, only in (N. America) The Valve cover can STAY ON ! (but is not advised) It's good to look at cam action. The crank cog can Stay on, but is but is always (1st time) to look use the new TSB for Torque.The GM book has gross errors. see that here. The torque settings are here. do not use GM settings, see errata at the end.( See 6mm warnings and non ISO Suzuki pulley bolts) I write this page not knowing why you are here (normal 60k belt swap) or the engine died?THE ACID test and the sneak-a-peek checks. NEVER TIME the CAM at TDC # 1 cylinder firing ( forget that IDEA?) This cam is timed at #4 firing ! NOT #1 ! READ THE real FSM carefully or mine below)  Click to
zoom  Ouch, click to
zoomMy Opinion: Most non OEM published procedures are flawed, they assume too many things, like the belt is not slipped or the distributor was timed correctly. Motor good., etc. Most generic store bought manuals get many facts wrong. I call them Rags, as that is all they are good for, is to mop up spills. (they have great warnings and safety! topics) Most books assume there are no failures. Many store bought manuals (Rags) do not even consider, you have a new cam, new head/block or head gasket. (HOW CAN THIS BE ?) Nor do they consider , bad maintenance or bad motor, or other failures. Some use the Distributor as a refrence point to setting the cam, This can cause great troubles. Don't look at the Disributor , leave that for LAST. FSM = Factory Service Manual. (only GM and Suzuki publish these) {ebay has them used, dirt cheap ,get one for about $28 used} Replace the Timing belt , Idler and water pump. (at least) Some like to change the seals ( I don't if , it don't leak) Changing the crank seal ,USE electricians tape on the shaft to protect the new seal , you will fail if you dont do that. Buy the full GATES kit with idler. Rockauto.com has this kit. It is very high quality. The Gates kit DISCOUNT$ the idler ! The idler by itself is very expensive. The actual FSM 4 pages with annotations by me. The FULL 96 FSM is also here. See chapter 6A Jargon :A/T is Automatic transmission, P/S is power steering, A/C is Air Conditioning, CCW is counter clock wise. Phase I:
PHASE II. (If replacing crank seal do #4 )
Warning 13 ?: In step 13 above. the idler base plate has a tang, this tang must be indexed to the idler base (backside) do not guess, index it, or you will have 2 failures, one it that the tension step is never going to work (loose belt) and now the idler is canted, causing belt drifting and hitting cover, a DOUBLE FAIL! The below new photo makes this very clear. See that TANG, about to fit in TANG hole, This is a MUST DO.  Drawing #1 16v Cam Cog gear: Click below to zoom and see real photo.  < Click to zoomPhoto 1: Crank cog gear:  click to zoomNote the crank key is at 12PM !!! see it , check CAREFULLY THIS !!! See that Mark above crank cog , cast into aluminum oil pump housing. See white mark above cog.? See that Mark on crank cog itself., see my white mark here. Proper tension is critical, it happens by allowing the spring on the idler to press on belt with the pulley. The key here is all tension comes from that tiny spring. (on the facing belt left side). Never tension a timing belt like an accessory Serpentine belt. If you decided to remove the cam cog wheel , you will see that "the key way is at 6pm, "E" the "I" key slow it WRONG ! This Cam wheel MUST be set correctly , do not proceed until it is correct. There are false marks do no use any false marks. Keep in mind that spring only works before the lock down , setting the exact tension, the spring is now useless until the next 60k swap. Note1: the 17mm bolt must be torqued to 94 lbs/ft ,and this can be done, 4 ways. 1: 5th gear , rear wheels chocked in 4wd High. Manual Tranny. Works perfect for me. with 5 speed. 2: AT- 3sp/4sp, with bottom flywheel pan removed and using a flywheel lock (make one. buy one) Suzuki sells them. HUGE VISE GRIPS work perfect. 3: Chilton's says, wrap damper pulley (its back on now) with duct tape and use a chain wrench to hold the pulley (an ugly procedure, gross way.) 4: My way is pulley off, and home made crank bottom cog lock , made of angle iron and attached to , ALT/AC or PS brackets. Drill holes in tool. Note2: Please do not rip your cam out or pop off the belt , just because the Distributor is mis timed. Please don't. Set the cam, then set the Distributor , there is no OTHER WAY. ( and surely never time Distributor and then time cam, as some store rags say to do) Please use these steps, as an adjunct to the above linked manuals FSM factory documents. There maybe?, other ways to time an engine, but this page is the FSM way. Feel free to try those other ways. OEM SUZUKI SPEC. WAY! Special Photos: A photo of the 16v cam end with false key way and a marks showing which is wrong. No manual mentions this fact, that there are 2 slots, ONE IS for G16B and the other is for a SF-413 DOHC motor. ONLY USE "E" slots and marks. IGNORE ALL "I" MARKS !!! Photo 2: The Cam belt is timed at #4 firing ! Just as the Gates belt instructions clearly state, and FSM. The "E" mark is at 12pm with the crank at TDC.  click to see on cam photo.Cam shaft key dowel pin down. E mark UP is the rule G16B, for setting the tension correctly. Ignore all "I" marks. SEE the 2 false marks?, This same exact cog is used on the G13B and K swift engine, that is a 4 cylinder, twin cam engine, (on the G13 the E means exhaust side, and I mean intake side) The Suzuki Swift 1.3L DOHC the real Suzuki name for the Swift is SF413 ! regardless of the other 10 names used world wide. (badge names) DO NOT EVER USE either of the "I" MARKS on this G16B 16valve 1.6L SOHC motor. Tools and materials: ( outside of full socket sets metric and deep and shallow and metric spanners) The only special tool needed is: A feeler guage and a crank shaft locker if car is A/T. MY lash procedure: (always LAST) The below tool is not needed , it is only an option. Drawing 2:  This worning shows up at GATE Rubber here The belew is in all USA Geo and Suzuki G16B books publised for this car. YOU DECIDE WHAT IT MEANS !  This warning is on USA and Canada exported engines, if you live in another country or have a low-lift [eco]cam then these precautions, may not apply to you. (but that would be rare!) These are serious issues, if your car is special or unique, then by all means , ignore all my warnings , this page is OEM LOCK BOX STOCK USA SIDEKICKS. The Below photo is not for timing CAM. !!! This is for parts identifications ONLY. Drawing 3:  1996 GEO TRACKED, 16V. Properly TIMED ! Look carefully, all secrets are shown here, all 6 Points of Reference !!! 3 photos. Photo 3: (see the ACID test here) Click to zoomAbove, CAM KEY DOWN, "E' MARK UP. Really, can it be more clear ? the above? Photo 4: (ignore the TONE wheel in years less than 1996)  Photo 5: (minor damage to key) A new cog stopped the back side hitting !!!  The Realities of bad maintenance: (running water pumps over 60k miles) On many cars, a water pump failure can the timing belt by cutting through the cover and hitting it. On Side kicks , I've seen the main water pump bearing, so bad, that the pulley flopped side to side, cutting through the front cover and destroying the timing belt. (takes serious ignorance, to drive any car with a bad screaming water pump , huh?)All belts fail for 1 reason, the owner did not do the 60,000 mile mandatory service. (pump not wailing away.) FAIL ? Many things that cause this (my) Timing belt proceedure to fail, or just seems too: There are a huge list of things that will make the new belt seem to fail , a huge list of engine failures, or EFI issues. If you motor, now has 170PSI compression cold (I always do this, after this procedure), then you didn't mess up cam timing.. PIT-FALLS: (in order of popularity :
LAST , do the Distributor timing. rev5------- 9-/5-2010 (major edit). All Text/html , COPYRIGHT © 2007- 7/23/2015 , FixKick.com |
Minggu, 28 Juni 2015
Bakti Sosial Ke Panti Asuhan Yabunaya Batam Barelang
Kami ingin menyampaikan bahwa , VES Community Chapter Batam
berencana melakukan Bakti Sosial ke Panti Asuhan Yabunaya Barelang
untuk lebih jelasnya bisa hub om Rizal Segala, Ahon, Ahmad Fikhri Hasibuan.
Kami menerima diluar community untuk ikut bergabung serta menyumbang se ikhlasnya untuk adik-adik kita di panti Asuhan , yang Insya Alloh akan di adakan pada hari
Hari : Minggu, 28-Juni-2015
tempat berkumpul : Bengkel Ahon
berencana melakukan Bakti Sosial ke Panti Asuhan Yabunaya Barelang
untuk lebih jelasnya bisa hub om Rizal Segala, Ahon, Ahmad Fikhri Hasibuan.
Kami menerima diluar community untuk ikut bergabung serta menyumbang se ikhlasnya untuk adik-adik kita di panti Asuhan , yang Insya Alloh akan di adakan pada hari
Hari : Minggu, 28-Juni-2015
tempat berkumpul : Bengkel Ahon
Selasa, 16 Juni 2015
what is EFI?
what is EFI?
This engine runs by means of a system, called the E.F.I. for Electronic Fuel Injection. (includes spark in 1991) (1989 to present)
Almost all cars 1988 and newer, have this system. ( due to the USA EPA/ California laws) effective mandates, on SMOG laws.
Why we have EFI and no more CARB'S in USA? , here is a 1980 Carb setup that passes smog, no words need define the word SUCK here. Just look. "aka, Vacuum H3LL"
I like to think of EFI as Distributed, Carburetor. (really if you think about that hard, IT IS !) And some things (all good) were added to make this New EFI carb better (like temperature and altitude corrections)
Fuel pump runs higher pressure, up to 10x more. 6 is now 60, worst case. (30-40s range normal)
All they really did is spread the parts out, making them easy to test, and easy to replace and costs way less, like a new ECT is $25, (ever price a new carb? or try to find parts for one?)
ANALOGY:
If a carb part breaks?, the car stalls (floods or goes lean and stalls), if the EFI sees a bad sensor it goes to Failsafe (limphome) and engine runs crappy but runs, and beasts the hell out of walking.
The EFI system. is way simpler than any Carb. with all its fussy , complex needles , jets, power valves, sticking chokes, or air bleeds and the like !
End carbs. , carbs are Dead technology today. (I have 1 cars that has a carb still and a motorcycle) My car is 1968. (runs like new too)
EFI:?
If EFI don't ring a bell ?, please check out my page below:
The presumptions are, you have engine and drive line mechanical/electrical(electronic) maintenance, skills. (can do compression tests. vacuum tests, and fuel pressure tests and a full tuneup, all are basics.)
A full set of tools and or the desire to buy more.
You can NOT fix a car, with out tools and Tools are free, that is, all tools net DIVIDENDS , to the point of payback!The desire to dig in and get to the problem, will overcome any hesitations (yes a pun).
If you want magic or expect to fix a car with no tools or money, then you need a reality check.(I'm sorry all machines break and need humans to keep them running, and not one machine on earth has "zero costs of ownership")
I refuse to guess. (as do all ASE mechanics) See this master say that clearly, to the students, DO NOT ask me to GUESS!
If you want to throw parts and guess, then do so, it is your nickel , and wasted time, I can not help you guess. In the end, it is your car and your cash.
There is but one Silver bullet . (but yes, do tune up the engine) (The Lone Ranger, magic silver bullet, refr) (spark parts and filters do not last over 60,000 miles, )
Imagine paying a mech to fix your car at $100 and hour + 2x price on parts ,and all that was wrong ?,were bad spark plugs or a clogged fuel filter, (you can do that service (just those 5 parts) for $25 at home)
Not only that, the dealers charges $15+ for $2.50 spark plugs. (earning the name stealerships, well earned? huh?)
What do you thing $25 new spark wires cost there, 400% more. 800% < ask them and cry.
The EFI will not function correctly with a bad engine (dead cylinder(s)?) dead spark or bad sensors or actuators. ( or bad gas).
The ECU will try hard , very very hard to run a bad engine, (low compression?, Air leaks? etc) but will not do so on a dead engine or one with dead cylinders.
I call these LIES, if anything lies to the ECU, it will malfunction. Bad sensors, or leaking or clogged injectors will result in bad fuel control.
(However the ECU/PCM can adjust to normal wear and compression losses over time and altitude like no CARB ,ever could by itself. Heck we had to retune the carbs for Denver, Co.)
Lies to ECU or any computer, are called GIGO, garbage in , garbage out. ( If sensors lie to it , it will send out (inject) results, based on those lies)
Bad fuel pressure, is one form of a vary BIG lie. (bad means out of spec, (short for factory specifications) 30 PSI is minimum ,but if the FPR fails and pressure is 55psi , all hope is lost !!!
The ECU (EFI) brain, is not Deity like or Omnipotant it is really, brick stupid, and has no inputs to true reality, therefor, it can never make a comparison to truth.
The CHECK engine LAMP; or CEL:
The false illusion that my engine is ok, if the CEL lamp don't glow running , IS NOT TRUE at all. (The ECU will report SMOG is bad, or gross sensor failures, and no newer cars lots more , but on old cars it will never reliably report a bad running)
The ECU will not report low engine compression, in 1996+ they do report MISFIRE for the first time ever.
However, the ECU can detect sensors lines that short or just the wire fell off of it. "opens and shorts, are reported, for some, but not all sensors/actuators.
On topic reading links are here:
You might get help here.
Even better, is Wiki
If you don't have a scan tool, you must learn to test your sensors and learn to convert the readings to human terms. .
Take one example, the ECT, the hot engine with ECT unplugged will read about 250 ohms. 250 ohms is 180 degrees F. (revised 2015 with Excel plots )
Here are my sensors test page.
Consider the below block diagram for EFI. (I made it up as a universal system for TBI and MPI and the adding of spark in 1991, SEE BLACK "X" for that addition)
My drawing is crude , I'm no artist or writer , only a retired mechanic. (I did only electronic controls, last 10 years and PLC's, and computers and chip testing for over 50years.)
The system is simple , if you just look at the whole system engine with EFI.
Suzuki ECU History: (USA evolution only)
The below shows a basic fuel system, (The 89/90 year, there is only 1 injector and the ECU don't create or control spark, but it DOES monitor spark and cut fuel if spark goes bye-bye)
1989-90' EFI is a fuel only system.!
The 89/90 has a stand alone Distributor (old school, mech. vacuum and advancement weights) , and a coil, the ECU does not create or regulate spark, in these 2 early years.
In 1991 the TBI 8v ECU, now creates and controls all spark and advancement of same.
For EFI skeptics , if you drove 2 cars for 20 years both 1.6L the gas savings (10,000 miles per year) 1990 to present would be a fuel savings of $5000.00 (some of the V8s SBC/ LBC Chevy's report gains over 20% ! (quadrajet sickness)
Digging in to EFI: ( ECU is Engine Control Unit)
The ECU is a processor and as such has inputs , outputs and if the inputs lie , the outputs lie.
If any input goes bad (detected it) the ECU will attempt (very poorly) to mimic that bad sensor ( simulate is the correct word and works better starting in 1996+, that is, less crude)
If the ECU knows what is wrong it will throw DTC errors and glow the CEL lamp.
The ECU can do 4 things, work perfect, run in Failsafe, run in Backup mode, and be LOST.
See Backup and Failsafe here, this will kill economy and power and RPM limits. (spark retraded, and 15MPG horrid fuel economy
What does lost mean?, it means that something horrid is bad, but the ECU does not know what it is, (like fuel pressure at 60PSI) and the ECU can not control fueling at all, it just runs rich. (do to lack of sensor command Authority)
The ECU is NOT all powerful and knowing , it is not Artificial Intelligence as some think.
It can't be , "because it has little to no redundancy in the sensors., and lacks necessary quantity of sensors to do that., for example, it has no wide band oxygen sensor"
I like to think of the below drawing as a FLAT carburettor or distributed..,, with the parts all laid out and easy to test and replace. because it IS.
The 89/90' just controls fuel see that "X:" the X path was added in 1991 to NOW.
So as you can see , only the 7 inputs below control injections.
If the 7 inputs(counting CMP (CAS) are good, then the output (injections) will be good. The 7th input is fuel pressure , it must be in the specified range.
The word CAS below is for either or both the CMP or CKP sensors (cam and crank) that I show as ONE sensor. CAS. (crank/cam angle sensors)
CKP started in 1996 for SMOG and misfire detection, the engine runs with the CKP unplugged 1996-98. (not tried later)
The ECU brain, will mimic all detected dead sensors.
(but never can it mimic a dead CMP (cas) CAS means cam angle sensor here.
if the CMP dies , RPM is 0 and there can be no spark or injection timing ever with a dead CMP)
The ECU can get lost if any sensors are wrong (weak) or fuel pressure wrong. or VUCUUM bouncing like a mexican jumping bean.(or a 10 year old kid on a Pogo stick)
If the spark is bad, the engine can not burn fuel correctly and NO EFI system can cure that.(not yet)
The injectors must not leak or be clogged.
IF the exhuast leaks (cracks?) near the 02 , the 02 lies, and the ECU goes , NUTS.
IF the air meters (MAF/MAP ) are not dead but lie? AFR will suffer. (but will run in most cases) (on a carb car, if the Carb can't feel (if you will) air flow?, the engine dies) (AFR means the Air/ Fuel flow ratios.)
Case in point, unplug the MAF/MAP engine runs but real rich. Try to run engine with each sensor unplugged and learn what happens?
The below, is the 8 valve TBI system total; ( the 89/90 Kick, only does injection , never does it do, spark, but does cut fuel of the tacho wire A1 goes dead.)
All Suzuki ECU's kill injection if spark is lost. No exceptions. (same with CMP, and a dead Tachmeter signal pin A1 (oddly missing on Suzuki drawing below) but is here.
Starting in 1991 the ECU took over FULL spark generation duties. see that below. (91-95 USA)
This system will run your engine , even if the motor is old and tired.
It will not run your engine correctly, if the engine has dead cylinders , or you have bad sensors, actuators or bad fuel pressure. Nor clogged injectors or leaking ones.
A bad engine is discovered by poor compression, weak or bouncing vacuum at idle.
The ECU can NOT adjust for dead cylinders, nor gross cam timing issues or gross Ignition timing errors.
Here is the 16v 1992-95 (N.American) ECU. with my markup's It has 3 more injectors and the MAP is replaced with a MAF.Here are my sensors test page.
end basics, G16 EFI.
The Jargon is not made up , it is SAE/ASE standard terms. (Society of Automotive Engineers)
I made a very short list of 40 of the 4000 terms or Jargon used by SAE.
We use Jargon, because nobody wants to read, or type, Engine Coolant Temperature sensors 1000 times. over and over.... it's ECT (every technology has its Jargon , or worse latin, ask your Doctor that.... omg)
Source : Fixkick.com
rev 4 1-5-11
This engine runs by means of a system, called the E.F.I. for Electronic Fuel Injection. (includes spark in 1991) (1989 to present)
Almost all cars 1988 and newer, have this system. ( due to the USA EPA/ California laws) effective mandates, on SMOG laws.
Why we have EFI and no more CARB'S in USA? , here is a 1980 Carb setup that passes smog, no words need define the word SUCK here. Just look. "aka, Vacuum H3LL"
I like to think of EFI as Distributed, Carburetor. (really if you think about that hard, IT IS !) And some things (all good) were added to make this New EFI carb better (like temperature and altitude corrections)
Fuel pump runs higher pressure, up to 10x more. 6 is now 60, worst case. (30-40s range normal)
All they really did is spread the parts out, making them easy to test, and easy to replace and costs way less, like a new ECT is $25, (ever price a new carb? or try to find parts for one?)
ANALOGY:
- The Carb fuel nozzels are now Injector(s).
- The Carb jets are now (equations in a computer) making them adjustable for the first time (that is, never seen an SU carb ? with variable jets? as most folks never have. (60s British cars?)
- The Carb emulsion jets are now equations (see above)
- The Carbs T.V. is STILL THERE (throttle valve) (no, not television, sorry)
- The Carbs Choke is gone, replaced by (equations). (I spent way too many
years fixing this junk , the crappy sticking chokes and endless stories
here.... all bad.)
- The Equations are fed by "SENSORS". (MAP/MAF, ECT, TPS , IAT and 02 and RPM)
- The carbs Power valve is gone, and is also equations. (stored in fixed memory ) and varies by air flow (sensors).
- The carbs float and float valve are now gone and now a FPR regulator.
- The carb could never talk to you, but now the EFI can ! hey buddy the TPS is stuck at 5v. fix that please. (all you need to do is SCAN IT)
If a carb part breaks?, the car stalls (floods or goes lean and stalls), if the EFI sees a bad sensor it goes to Failsafe (limphome) and engine runs crappy but runs, and beasts the hell out of walking.
The EFI system. is way simpler than any Carb. with all its fussy , complex needles , jets, power valves, sticking chokes, or air bleeds and the like !
End carbs. , carbs are Dead technology today. (I have 1 cars that has a carb still and a motorcycle) My car is 1968. (runs like new too)
EFI:?
If EFI don't ring a bell ?, please check out my page below:
The presumptions are, you have engine and drive line mechanical/electrical(electronic) maintenance, skills. (can do compression tests. vacuum tests, and fuel pressure tests and a full tuneup, all are basics.)
A full set of tools and or the desire to buy more.
You can NOT fix a car, with out tools and Tools are free, that is, all tools net DIVIDENDS , to the point of payback!The desire to dig in and get to the problem, will overcome any hesitations (yes a pun).
If you want magic or expect to fix a car with no tools or money, then you need a reality check.(I'm sorry all machines break and need humans to keep them running, and not one machine on earth has "zero costs of ownership")
I refuse to guess. (as do all ASE mechanics) See this master say that clearly, to the students, DO NOT ask me to GUESS!
If you want to throw parts and guess, then do so, it is your nickel , and wasted time, I can not help you guess. In the end, it is your car and your cash.
There is but one Silver bullet . (but yes, do tune up the engine) (The Lone Ranger, magic silver bullet, refr) (spark parts and filters do not last over 60,000 miles, )
Imagine paying a mech to fix your car at $100 and hour + 2x price on parts ,and all that was wrong ?,were bad spark plugs or a clogged fuel filter, (you can do that service (just those 5 parts) for $25 at home)
Not only that, the dealers charges $15+ for $2.50 spark plugs. (earning the name stealerships, well earned? huh?)
What do you thing $25 new spark wires cost there, 400% more. 800% < ask them and cry.
The EFI will not function correctly with a bad engine (dead cylinder(s)?) dead spark or bad sensors or actuators. ( or bad gas).
The ECU will try hard , very very hard to run a bad engine, (low compression?, Air leaks? etc) but will not do so on a dead engine or one with dead cylinders.
I call these LIES, if anything lies to the ECU, it will malfunction. Bad sensors, or leaking or clogged injectors will result in bad fuel control.
(However the ECU/PCM can adjust to normal wear and compression losses over time and altitude like no CARB ,ever could by itself. Heck we had to retune the carbs for Denver, Co.)
Lies to ECU or any computer, are called GIGO, garbage in , garbage out. ( If sensors lie to it , it will send out (inject) results, based on those lies)
Bad fuel pressure, is one form of a vary BIG lie. (bad means out of spec, (short for factory specifications) 30 PSI is minimum ,but if the FPR fails and pressure is 55psi , all hope is lost !!!
The ECU (EFI) brain, is not Deity like or Omnipotant it is really, brick stupid, and has no inputs to true reality, therefor, it can never make a comparison to truth.
The CHECK engine LAMP; or CEL:
The false illusion that my engine is ok, if the CEL lamp don't glow running , IS NOT TRUE at all. (The ECU will report SMOG is bad, or gross sensor failures, and no newer cars lots more , but on old cars it will never reliably report a bad running)
The ECU will not report low engine compression, in 1996+ they do report MISFIRE for the first time ever.
However, the ECU can detect sensors lines that short or just the wire fell off of it. "opens and shorts, are reported, for some, but not all sensors/actuators.
On topic reading links are here:
You might get help here.
Even better, is Wiki
If you don't have a scan tool, you must learn to test your sensors and learn to convert the readings to human terms. .
Take one example, the ECT, the hot engine with ECT unplugged will read about 250 ohms. 250 ohms is 180 degrees F. (revised 2015 with Excel plots )
Here are my sensors test page.
Consider the below block diagram for EFI. (I made it up as a universal system for TBI and MPI and the adding of spark in 1991, SEE BLACK "X" for that addition)
My drawing is crude , I'm no artist or writer , only a retired mechanic. (I did only electronic controls, last 10 years and PLC's, and computers and chip testing for over 50years.)
The system is simple , if you just look at the whole system engine with EFI.
Suzuki ECU History: (USA evolution only)
The below shows a basic fuel system, (The 89/90 year, there is only 1 injector and the ECU don't create or control spark, but it DOES monitor spark and cut fuel if spark goes bye-bye)
1989-90' EFI is a fuel only system.!
The 89/90 has a stand alone Distributor (old school, mech. vacuum and advancement weights) , and a coil, the ECU does not create or regulate spark, in these 2 early years.
In 1991 the TBI 8v ECU, now creates and controls all spark and advancement of same.
For EFI skeptics , if you drove 2 cars for 20 years both 1.6L the gas savings (10,000 miles per year) 1990 to present would be a fuel savings of $5000.00 (some of the V8s SBC/ LBC Chevy's report gains over 20% ! (quadrajet sickness)
Digging in to EFI: ( ECU is Engine Control Unit)
The ECU is a processor and as such has inputs , outputs and if the inputs lie , the outputs lie.
If any input goes bad (detected it) the ECU will attempt (very poorly) to mimic that bad sensor ( simulate is the correct word and works better starting in 1996+, that is, less crude)
If the ECU knows what is wrong it will throw DTC errors and glow the CEL lamp.
The ECU can do 4 things, work perfect, run in Failsafe, run in Backup mode, and be LOST.
See Backup and Failsafe here, this will kill economy and power and RPM limits. (spark retraded, and 15MPG horrid fuel economy
What does lost mean?, it means that something horrid is bad, but the ECU does not know what it is, (like fuel pressure at 60PSI) and the ECU can not control fueling at all, it just runs rich. (do to lack of sensor command Authority)
The ECU is NOT all powerful and knowing , it is not Artificial Intelligence as some think.
It can't be , "because it has little to no redundancy in the sensors., and lacks necessary quantity of sensors to do that., for example, it has no wide band oxygen sensor"
I like to think of the below drawing as a FLAT carburettor or distributed..,, with the parts all laid out and easy to test and replace. because it IS.
The 89/90' just controls fuel see that "X:" the X path was added in 1991 to NOW.
So as you can see , only the 7 inputs below control injections.
If the 7 inputs(counting CMP (CAS) are good, then the output (injections) will be good. The 7th input is fuel pressure , it must be in the specified range.
The word CAS below is for either or both the CMP or CKP sensors (cam and crank) that I show as ONE sensor. CAS. (crank/cam angle sensors)
CKP started in 1996 for SMOG and misfire detection, the engine runs with the CKP unplugged 1996-98. (not tried later)
The ECU brain, will mimic all detected dead sensors.
(but never can it mimic a dead CMP (cas) CAS means cam angle sensor here.
if the CMP dies , RPM is 0 and there can be no spark or injection timing ever with a dead CMP)
The ECU can get lost if any sensors are wrong (weak) or fuel pressure wrong. or VUCUUM bouncing like a mexican jumping bean.(or a 10 year old kid on a Pogo stick)
If the spark is bad, the engine can not burn fuel correctly and NO EFI system can cure that.(not yet)
The injectors must not leak or be clogged.
IF the exhuast leaks (cracks?) near the 02 , the 02 lies, and the ECU goes , NUTS.
IF the air meters (MAF/MAP ) are not dead but lie? AFR will suffer. (but will run in most cases) (on a carb car, if the Carb can't feel (if you will) air flow?, the engine dies) (AFR means the Air/ Fuel flow ratios.)
Case in point, unplug the MAF/MAP engine runs but real rich. Try to run engine with each sensor unplugged and learn what happens?
The below, is the 8 valve TBI system total; ( the 89/90 Kick, only does injection , never does it do, spark, but does cut fuel of the tacho wire A1 goes dead.)
All Suzuki ECU's kill injection if spark is lost. No exceptions. (same with CMP, and a dead Tachmeter signal pin A1 (oddly missing on Suzuki drawing below) but is here.
Starting in 1991 the ECU took over FULL spark generation duties. see that below. (91-95 USA)
This system will run your engine , even if the motor is old and tired.
It will not run your engine correctly, if the engine has dead cylinders , or you have bad sensors, actuators or bad fuel pressure. Nor clogged injectors or leaking ones.
A bad engine is discovered by poor compression, weak or bouncing vacuum at idle.
The ECU can NOT adjust for dead cylinders, nor gross cam timing issues or gross Ignition timing errors.
Here is the 16v 1992-95 (N.American) ECU. with my markup's It has 3 more injectors and the MAP is replaced with a MAF.Here are my sensors test page.
end basics, G16 EFI.
The Jargon is not made up , it is SAE/ASE standard terms. (Society of Automotive Engineers)
I made a very short list of 40 of the 4000 terms or Jargon used by SAE.
We use Jargon, because nobody wants to read, or type, Engine Coolant Temperature sensors 1000 times. over and over.... it's ECT (every technology has its Jargon , or worse latin, ask your Doctor that.... omg)
Source : Fixkick.com
rev 4 1-5-11
